Fife Recce Part 3 - To Crail and Beyond
As it turned out, there were lots of lovely places to eat in Crail. There was even a lobster BBQ right down by Crail's harbour in a little shack. But by the time we got there only one lobster was left in its bubbling big outdoor tank, so we headed to the first place we found - a tearoom and gallery, inside a 17th Century fisherman’s cottage cellar.
Jon happily munched a sweet herring lunch (Happy Fathers Day!) while Midi and Maxi distanced themselves from their crumblies at a table on their own. They sat swigging their fruit juices in their matching tee-shirts and shades like a junior Ab Fab Patsy and Edwina. Ah dear, a taste of things to come!
Maxi spotted some touristy suggestions at the bottom of the menu so, after we’d eaten, we walked along the coast towards the north. It took us down below gardens full of amazing vegetables. Who knew that artichokes grew so tall, especially right at the water’s edge?! We kept walking past all the green seaweed and were eventually rewarded with a fantastic big beach: clean, safe, and interesting. If only we’d brought the kites!
It was too much effort to walk back to the car to fetch the mini Trangia and my homemade pancake mix so we broke into the boxes of enormous, fragrant raspberries and strawberries we’d stopped off to buy earlier at one of the hundreds of fruit farms we’d passed. Jon fed them to us all like a big Daddy Bird to his chicks.
Maxi skipped around the water's edge for a long while, then had an impromptu dip in the sea. I swear she levitated out of the water the millisecond the North Sea contacted her skin. She then danced her own version of a Highland Fling, without her sister’s fishing nets (!), desperately trying to get her skort dry. Had we properly planned the day, we’d have taken a change of clothes and a towel. Next time!
Eventually and reluctantly we really had to leave those fascinating rocks and sand and move on in search of dinner. We decided to have a final big blow out treat dinner round in St Andrews on the way home so that we had an excuse to try out the world-famous Jannetta’s Gelateria gelatos afterwards. They didn’t disappoint! Although I liked my elderflower sorbet, next time I’m going for Mini’s sophisticated choice of raspberry and cocoa sorbets – perfectly unsweet and delicious! The little cones were still as big as Mini’s head, but she persevered and polished the lot off.
We strolled around briefly to walk off the ice creams. St Andrews looks like the kind of place that you could easily spend an entire trip exploring. Maxi noticed the bookshop that looked like it had appeared straight from the set of a Harry Potter film. She also saw a metal meridian line in the pavement and discovered via a nearby blue plaque on the wall that it commemorated one of the most brilliant mathematicians ever: Gregory, who founded calculus alongside Leibnitz and Newton. Though true to form, Jon and his bike-mad trio were more agog at the window of a cycle shop than any of the beautiful old university buildings. Me, I prefer to gaze at cool clouds that look like soaring eagles…
We got home very late on a school night (oops), vowing to return as soon as we could. It’s going to take us ages to explore the beautiful kingdom of Fife – fantastic! I can’t wait.
About the Author
About Me & Mine
Hello! I’m Jay, married to Jon, living in North East Scotland with our 3 daughters: Maxi (10), Midi (8) and Mini Minx (6).
Favourite place in the world:
It’s hard to choose between the stretch of Moray Firth coast between Findhorn and Cullen, and Westray (a northerly Orkney island). Both have an amazing diversity of beautiful coastlines in a small space (empty, clean, sandy beaches; crystal-clear rockpools; crags, cliffs and stacks), fascinating wildlife, friendly people and endlessly interesting weather. Bar visits to friends and relatives, we’ve taken all our holidays in Scotland, north of where we live, for many years. We’ve still barely scratched the surface of this beautiful country.
Favourite things to do outdoors:
Rock-pooling and scrambling on local beaches; camping; walking in the gentler local hills; foraging for fruit and jam-making ingredients; and growing our own fruit and vegetables against the combined deterring efforts of our cat and the weather.